Altar frontal: the tulip

Ipsden Church, Oxon: patchwork altar frontal, detail of tulip (hand embroidered by Mary Addison)

Ipsden Church, Oxon: patchwork altar frontal, detail of tulip (hand embroidered by Mary Addison)

Tulipomania was one of those bizarre feasts of crazy financial speculation that we love to refer back to when some sector of the economy, like house prices (especially London ones), starts to overheat and sets off upward. There is no more colourful example of the working of unfettered market forces by which fortunes were made (and lost) overnight than that of the tulip market in the Netherlands in the first half of the C17th. So sophisticated was the market in tulips that an early sort of ‘futures’ market evolved in which bulbs were traded but never actually changed hands – the only certain beneficiaries of this being innkeepers, because most trading took place in inns and taverns and ‘wine money’ became an important part of the deal.

Unidentified broken tulip (from Mr Marshal's Flower Book: Royal Collections Publications, 2008)

Unidentified broken tulip (from Mr Marshal’s Flower Book: Royal Collections Publications, 2008)

The source of all this hooha was a flower brought to Europe by travellers from Turkey, along with silks, spices and tales of the silk route  It was the beloved flower of sultans for whom tulip motifs decorated everything – textiles, pottery, manuscripts, painted walls,  glazed floors, carved wooden screens –  a reminder of a flower only briefly in full bloom in their gardens.

Ipsden Church, Oxon: patchwork altar frontal, detail of tulip (hand embroidered by Mary Addison)

Ipsden Church, Oxon: patchwork altar frontal, detail of tulip (hand embroidered by Mary Addison)

But the plant had an additional and ultimately fatal fascination – that of unpredictability. What one year was a plain single-coloured flower could emerge the next year as a thing of surpassing beauty, with feathering and flames of a new colour bleeding into the original colour. These changeling ‘broken’ flowers were highly prized and many unsuccessful efforts were made to produce them at will. (Out of a batch of 100 tulips, probably one 1 or 2  of the sought after broken tulips would emerge.) Seemingly fortunate for speculators, when a bulb had ‘broken’, it remained broken and offsets maintained the sought after characteristics. Gradually, however, subsequent generations were observed to be slower to flower, less prolific and the blooms less splendid, stunted and weak, until in the end bulbs just broke up or withered away.

Anna Pavord: The Tulip (Bloomsbury, 1999) Mike Dash: Tulipomania (Victor Gallancz, 1999)

Anna Pavord: The Tulip (Bloomsbury, 1999)
Mike Dash: Tulipomania (Victor Gallancz, 1999)

What the C17th  did not know – could not know – was that the ‘breaks’ in their splendid tulips were caused by a virus spread by an aphid. The tulip break virus or tulip mosaic virus suppresses the laid-on colour of the tulip, its anthocyanin, and this allows the underlying colour (always either white or yellow) to emerge.

Mr Marshal's Flower Book (Royal Collection Publications, 2008)

Mr Marshal’s Flower Book (Royal Collection Publications, 2008)

It wasn’t until 1928, that Dorothy Cayley, at the John Innes Horticultural Institution  (not just ‘compost’ then) discovered that the disease was transferred via sap transmitted from plant to plant by aphids. In the 1960s it was shown to be a virus. Since then many countries have prohibited commerce in bulbs known to carry the virus. Today, tulips which look like the flamboyant C17 examples are stable variants and the result of careful breeding. In the C17th there were only a handful of species, today there are 6,000 different ones. Many involved in the bulb industry view the elimination of the mosaic virus on a par with the human elimination of smallpox. But, unlike the smallpox virus which is only kept in very small quantities in secure laboratories, some growers still have access to the tulip virus and produce broken tulips – this year at the Chelsea Flower Show, 2 broken tulips, Columbine and Sam Barlow were on display. Look here on Remodelista for a comparison of  a broken tulip with one bred to achieve a similar effect.

Semper Augusta (from Mike Dash: Tulipomania; Victor Gollencz, 1999)

Semper Augusta (from Mike Dash: Tulipomania; Victor Gollencz, 1999)

Obviously, my tulip is meant to be one of the modern bred varieties and is fully virus free.

Bibliography:

Anna Pavord: The Tulip (Bloomsbury, 1999)  A wide ranging book about a single flower and the political, social, economic, religious, intellectual and cultural baggage carried on its slender stem. Great pictures and beautifully written.

Mike Dash: Tulipomania (Victor Gollancz, 1999)  The charting of what was perhaps the world’s strangest financial crisis, an attempt to cast a clear eye on the craze and to understand the financial climate in which it occurred.

Mr Marshal’s Flower Book (Royal Collections Publications, 2008)

The exquisite Florilegium of Alexander Marshal (c.1620-82) is the only surviving example of a C17th English flower book. His watercolour sketches of flowers make this a wonderful handbook for the embroiderer.

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Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing: possibly the best chocolate cake ever

Milk chocolate  cake with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

For many years I have used a recipe for chocolate cake  that I found in Jane Cable-Alexander’s book Giving a Children’s Party (Pelham  Books, 1980). During that time I’ve changed the ingredients quite a bit, cutting out the salt entirely, substituting butter for margarine, using 3 eggs instead of 2 and, having experimented with different flours, I decided that, instead of the recipe’s 200g SR, the best result comes from using a combination of 100g SR flour, 50g wholemeal flour and 50g ground almonds. The one thing I have never changed is the 5 tablespoons of evaporated milk which gives the cake its milk chocolate flavour and perhaps helps to keep it moist. Neither have I tampered with the accompanying recipe for chocolate fudge icing (which also calls for evaporated milk) because it is just perfect as it is and incredibly easy to make. The resulting cake is excellent, soft, yet firm enough to allow you to pack the cake into a tin and take on a picnic. It also keeps very well in a tight lidded tin – if anyone in the house will leave it unmolested.

Milk chocolate cup cakes with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

Milk chocolate cup cakes with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

Little cup cakes made from this recipe have also been well received by students coming to the library’s ‘Squash biscuits…and chocolate cake’ afternoon breaks. And what a good thing that has been for, instead of trying new recipes I could just churn this one out on semi automatic pilot – necessary when fitting cake making into an evening after work (and icing until after Newsnight). The Ovaltine cake was a variant on this recipe.

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing and white chocolate buttons

Milk Chocolate wholemeal and almond cake

100g / 3 and a half oz self-raising flour

50g/just under 2 oz wholemeal flour

50g/just under 2 oz ground almonds

225 g / 8 oz caster sugar

2 tablespoons drinking chocolate ( see update below: or 2 tablespoons cocoa)

100g / 3 and a half  oz butter

3 eggs

5 tablespoons evaporated milk

5 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Grease 2 deepish 18 cm/ 7 inch, either round or square but not loose-bottomed tins. Line with greaseproof paper unless you have the sort of cake tins that have a metal arm that whizzes round the tin and loosens the cooked cake, in which case just grease the tins but you don’t need to bother lining them.

Sift the dry ingredients and rub in the butter.

Mix together eggs, milk, water and vanilla extract and add to the mixture. Beat this well until it is soft. Pour into the baking tins.

Bake in a moderate oven at 180 degrees C/ 160 degrees C for a fan oven/ 350 degrees F or Gas Mark 4 for about 30 minutes. The cake should be springy when pressed with a finger (or when a skewer comes out clean).

Chocolate Fudge Icing 

This will be enough to both fill and cover the top of the cake

N.B Make up half quantities to ice cup cakes

75g / just under 3 oz butter

4 tablespoons cocoa

225g/ 8 oz sieved icing sugar

3 tablespoons evaporated milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Small packet white chocolate buttons

Melt the butter and the cocoa together and then stir in the icing sugar, evaporated milk and vanilla extract.  Remove from heat and beat like billy-o until smooth. Do not panic if  it looks lumpy with far too much icing sugar showing as white globules in the chocolate sauce – just keep beating. Suddenly you will feel the mixture stiffen and go fudge-like. Spread immediately as it will firm up quite quickly – but don’t worry, this is an advantage as you can get it right to the edge of the cake without fear of  it dripping over the side. (Dip a knife into boiling water if you feel you need to help the icing spread more smoothly.) Set chocolate buttons on the edge immediately. This sounds horrific and far too stressful but actually amazingly easy.

27 June 2014 Update

After a comment from Katia Jade who was mystified as to what drinking chocolate was and whether she could buy it in the US, I began to think that perhaps drinking chocolate was not necessary and that ordinary cocoa was better. I then made the cake shown below with cocoa and it was delicious. I was a bit heavy handed on the cocoa, so if you want more of a lighter chocolate cake, make sure you only add 1-2 tablespoons of cocoa powder to the cake mix. The chocolate fudge icing remains the same.

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing (made with cocoa powder)

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing (made with cocoa powder)

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing (made with cocoa powder)

Milk chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing (made with cocoa powder)x

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